How One Tibetan Workshop Is Reviving a Village Financial system and Reimagining Custom

With half-frozen fingers, I googled “Do vultures assault people?” on my cellphone. I used to be alone on a grassy hilltop in central China’s Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture when the birds, giant as foxes and with beaks curved like meat hooks, appeared out of nowhere. Although this area isn’t a part of modern-day Tibet, Tibetan tradition is prevalent, and sky burials (by which our bodies are left to be eaten by vultures) are nonetheless practiced. Fortuitously, the birds are innocent to these nonetheless respiration, however, on this frigid November afternoon in a sparsely populated nook of China, the encounter received my blood pumping.

Two hours earlier, I had left my room at Norlha Home within the small village of Zorgey Ritoma to ramble within the highlands of Gannan. As soon as the village’s gold-roofed Ritoma Monastery and the final of its yak herds had disappeared into the space, all I might see was the undulating steppe. For each ridge I crossed, one other one, simply as barren, emerged behind it. The closest giant metropolis, Chengdu, residence to greater than 20 million residents, was 400 miles away. Most worldwide vacationers join by means of Beijing or Shanghai earlier than flying in to Lanzhou, a metropolis in northwestern China. I, nonetheless, flew in to a tiny airport in Xiahe County.

Zorgey Ritoma just isn’t a spot the place you’d anticipate finding a boutique promoting $800 shirts and $2,000 bedspreads, however that’s precisely what I had come to seek out. Norlha—an atelier the place artisans take khullu or yak down, sourced from herders across the Tibetan Plateau and make it into velvet-soft garments and residential items—was based in 2007 by Tibetan-American entrepreneur Deien Yeshi and her mom, Kim. The model now sells items in high-end boutiques akin to Dover Avenue Market in Paris and La Garçonne in New York Metropolis. The atelier is subsequent door to Norlha Home, which Yeshi additionally owns.

After I met Yeshi for tea in her light-flooded workplace, which was stuffed with the clatter of rattling looms and wood spinning wheels, she spoke in regards to the speedy modernization of rural China and the pressures pulling noiadic Tibetans towards cities. By creating jobs for the local people, Yeshi hopes that Norlha can present another, permitting households to maintain their nomadic id whereas incomes a secure earnings.

At the moment the enterprise trains and employs greater than 100 craftspeople, providing a uncommon financial anchor in an space the place job alternatives are scarce. “Preserving this tradition alive is not only about preserving the previous,” Yeshi mentioned. “It’s about making a future the place custom and modernity coexist in a significant and sustainable means.”

The flagship retailer, on a paved avenue in Zorgey Ritoma amid grassy folds of mountains, opened in a timber-clad house above the atelier in Could 2023. I browsed the gathering of felted vests, trendy coats, and silky shirts with mandarin collars impressed by conventional Tibetan jackets. There have been cloud-soft child blankets, yeti-shaped plush toys, and, on the mezzanine, a rack of burgundy robes and capes. Whereas there are additionally Norlha outposts in Beijing and Lhasa, the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Area, the choice to open this location was deliberate. “By experiencing the area’s panorama and tradition firsthand, clients actually get to know the product,” Yeshi mentioned.

A couple of hundred {dollars} lighter, however with a brand new khullu scarf to maintain me heat, I got down to just do that. Whereas the Tibet Autonomous Area is sort of 700 miles to Gannan’s west, Tibetan tradition endures on this southern Chinese language prefecture. The area’s relative isolation has performed a job, however so has the resilience of its individuals. In Zorgey Ritoma, I began my mornings with a hearty porridge manufactured from tsamba, a roasted barley flour, combined with yak-butter tea, and lunched on chili-flecked yak-meat momos. On the Ritoma Monastery, I watched a younger monk observe on his dung-chen, an extended Tibetan brass trumpet. The instrument’s haunting wails appeared to fill the entire valley.

One other day, I drove 40 miles north to go to the 18th-century Labrang Monastery, one of many largest Tibetan Buddhist complexes outdoors of Tibet. Regardless of the morning chill, tons of of pilgrims have been already circling the kora, a two-mile prayer path across the cloister’s partitions. The garments of essentially the most religious have been lined in white mud, the results of the prostrations they made after each few steps; others fingered prayer beads and recited Buddhist mantras.

With its inhabitants of practically 1,500 monks, dozens of temples, and a grid of roads and alleys, the monastery felt extra like a small city. Tony, who hails from Gannan and is without doubt one of the few English audio system on the advanced, guided me across the prayer halls. The air was thick with the candy fumes from Tibetan oil-burning lamps, and golden Buddhas peered down on worshippers chanting in deep, resonant tones. We handed golden pagodas, shadowy rooms stocked with hundreds of Buddhist prayer books, and a monk chasing a goat out of his humble residing quarters.

I requested Tony to clarify the Buddhist philosophy adopted by the Yellow Sect, to which he belongs. “Inside you might be two emotions, these of the physique and people of the soul,” he answered after mulling it over for some time. “Most individuals deal with their physique, however not their soul—the stability is off.” He went on to clarify how the big-city way of life, pushed by cash and success, usually leads individuals away from internal peace, slightly than towards it. “Persons are at all times chasing happiness, however don’t know its true that means,” he mentioned.

After I returned to Zorgey Ritoma, Tony’s phrases lingered. On the market, the place the land stretches endlessly and the sky feels impossibly shut, that stability between physique and soul appeared much less elusive. The dung-chen nonetheless rang, and the vultures nonetheless circled overhead. Not as harbingers of the previous, I now realized, however as quiet witnesses to a tradition that’s holding its floor.

A model of this story first appeared within the November 2025 subject of Journey + Leisure underneath the headline “Threads of Tibet.”